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Thursday 6 December 2012

Some Things You Can't Put Up With

At first I wrote this for the blog, but then mulled sending this to The Star. It ended up in The Malaysian Insider because of the number of links in the piece, which made it (a little) more suitable for an online medium and I couldn't wait till Sunday.

Silly reasons, maybe. Probably as silly as that letter I'm responding to.

If he is from Penang, Mr Fed-up's small-minded meanness demeans my home state more than the parachuted outsiders and imports. Penang has always been a cosmopolitan place, and the Festival is but part of the continuation of George Town's rich history.

(...not saying that other places are any less cosmopolitan or poor in history...)

Fixed the second line in this version; some bits I should've removed after shifting some paragraphs got left behind. My apologies.

The quote marks, however, were deliberate; I've spent so much time out of Penang I'm not sure I can technically call myself a Penangite anymore...



From one 'Penangite' to another

first published in The Malaysian Insider, 06 December 2012

I was reading about the recently concluded Hay Festival of Literature and Arts in the Bangla Academy at Dhaka and the protesters who felt the event, which focuses on English literature, shouldn't be hosted at the venue.

Though the protesters in Bangladesh had reason to object, the planners of Hay in Dhaka:

"...went to great lengths to ensure due homage to local culture and history, as the opening ceremony presented classical Indian dances performed to Bangla poems, and ended with a jatra, a form of folk dance-drama. Out of 41 panels, at least 15 were in Bangla, and the stage was taken by four times as many Bangladeshi writers as foreign ones. The Bangla panels found equal room for new poets, like Trimita Chakma, who writes in the minority Chakma language. And the event marked the time at Hay that women outnumbered men on stage."

Closer to home, there's the Singapore Writers Festival, which began in 1986. Before anybody starts talking up the lack of local culture there, just look at these names.

Which is probably why I felt the podcast about the George Town Literary Festival devoted too much time on the grouses of an allegedly "fed-up Penangite".

The irate letter he sent to The Star complains about the festival not featuring any Georgetown talent, and how the event was dominated by imports from outstation and overseas.

"How long do you think Penangites are going to put up with these so-called George Town Festivals that have got nothing to do with the real history, culture and people of Penang?" he asks in the end.

As I understand it, a "George Town Literary Festival" is "a lit fest held in George Town", not "a lit fest about George Town." I doubt the Singapore Writers Fest would be as fun or exciting if it were held in the spirit of the latter definition.

I'm from George Town, and though I rarely go back, I feel pretty confident about my hometown's quaint little charms, street food and whatnot. So it's a great place for a lit fest, next to Ipoh maybe.

To me, this hang-up about the richness and significance of our culture blinds us to other important stuff. For one, many Malaysians are, I think, more acquainted with foreign writers, so an event that gets foreign and local writers together is a treat, to say the least.

Another important aspect of our culture we're so fond of hyping up is our hospitality. It's not just what you got, but also how you present it to your guests that keeps them coming back. That emotionless Singapore can host a bigger better lit fest than we can, even with a two-decade head-start, makes you wonder.

To see this cloying display of petty, insecure, condescending self-righteousness from someone who calls himself a Penangite is dispiriting. I wouldn't want him on the organising committee of any cultural event wherever, whenever.

I'm more embarrassed by how many Penangites, including myself, seem to be less interested in contributing to running a lit fest than attending one. I'm much less embarrassed about the "parachuted" outsiders and foreign imports that ran the show. I'll put up with anyone who cares enough to do what is currently a thankless, exhausting job.

I don't believe that that Penang-based poet is "Fed-up Penangite". If he declined an invitation to the festival, writing that letter afterwards would be an incredibly galling thing to do. By the way: that DIVA thing appears to be for real.

A more plausible reason for the letter can possibly be inferred from its first line: "While constantly preaching that the state always puts Penang and Penangites first, in practice it is quite the opposite."

I wouldn't even call this letter a cheap shot. And why spoil it for those who hope the George Town Lit Fest will one day become something that rivals the one in, say, Singapore or Ubud?

When that day comes, or maybe — maybe — next year, I'll be happy to parachute in, even if it's just to wash the wine glasses after the party. You fed-up Penangites, stay out of my way.

Wednesday 5 December 2012

Tim And The Red Coats

It appears that the so-called "re-invention" of publishing touted by Amazon and 4-Hour Guy Tim Ferriss involves bandying the we new publishing vs them traditionals in his collaboration with Amazon for The 4-Hour Chef.

Another thing about Ferriss's marketing is he's using BitTorrent to distribute the PR package for The 4-Hour Chef. Often associated with online piracy, BitTorrent seems like an unlikely promotional tool, but Ferriss seems confident. And it's one way of helping to refine BitTorrent's image.

The stats thus far have been encouraging. The PR bundle has been d-loaded about 211,000 times and around 85,000 BitTorrent users have checked out the book at Amazon.

Victory means getting on a best-seller list or something, to "send a message to the incumbent world of publishing, to those who want everything to remain in the 1900's." But is he also claiming that his efforts may be somehow stymied by the "old guard" - presumably Barnes & Noble - as an example to other writers pondering a shift to the "new" publishing model?

At least that's what I can infer from that ... unusual post of his.

So Ferriss appears to be implying that he's a victim of what he sees as unjust busines practices from an 'old school' bookstore chain who won't carry books by Amazon, which makes him an underdog of sorts. And who wouldn't support an underdog?


Tim Ferriss @ www.fourhourworkweek.com
Oh yes, I would love to buy a book from this guy


Even if you "must take attack using different means" to get your book sold, please don't paint all publishers red with your big broad brush. More than two centuries after the Red Coats left, 'the colonies' is still a work-in-progress. Just like publishing. At least he didn't outright say that publishers hate authors.

Also, his book isn't banned in the way we are more familiar with. For one, it doesn't look like anybody in the White House sees The 4-Hour Chef as a threat to national security. No religious body seems offended by this book. It's just that Barnes & Noble doesn't want anything by Amazon inside its stores, a move which I think will eventually prove futile.

And Timmy Ferriss is no publishing lightweight. He'll be fine, regardless of who he works with on his book project.

While some may decry his "misleading" marketing strategies, Ferriss's decision to jump ship to Amazon does not make him a traitor or disloyal. Writers have every right to go with an agent, distributor or publisher who they feel can give them the best deal. That's how it's been and will be.

One should also remember that publishers, like corporations, do what's best for them first. That will never change, either.

Monday 3 December 2012

News: A Reviewing Mood, Etc, A Cyclist And A Big Bad Wolf

Michiko K's review of Calvin Trillin's book - in verse - gets somebody in Salon all interrogative, though I doubt any malice was intended. Are we seeing the development of a trend? Meanwhile, the negative review wave rumbles on with Zoë Heller's take on Salman Rushdie's Joseph Anton, which Gawker has anointed "Hatchet Job of the Year 2012" - so soon?

Why did Gawker like it? Because, according to them, Heller's a known journalist taking on what some would consider a literary titan. So:

We want a tiger to take down a tiger, not a sleeping housecat, especially not a housecat that's generally friendly and harmless and writes books that your great-aunt likes to bring on airplanes to calm her nerves.

Also, it is very exciting to watch important British people insult each other (see the House of Lords for further evidence). They are, generally speaking, much better at it than Americans, partly because reading is a blood sport there, but also because they've had centuries of practice on us...

So eloquent and succinct.

For those who're lazy to write creative reviews, here's five rules of writing a Pete Wells-style takedown. Have I talked about this...?

And this long LA Review of Books piece on Bill Henderson's Rotten Reviews Redux and the credentials of a critic is worth poring over.

In other news:

  • Simon & Schuster dives into self-publishing with self-publishing solutions provider Archway Publishing. But, like with all "pay-to-play" publishing, one advises caution, especially with premium rates like these.
  • RIP Zig Ziglar.
  • Some notable authors join a campaign to make books part of emergency relief efforts. Because "nourishment for the mind" is just as important as nourishment for the body, clothes and a roof.
  • Is our fondness for happy endings blunting our appetite for "unhappily ever after"?
  • James Gleick’s The Information wins the 2012 Royal Society Winton Prize for Science Books. I reviewed it some time ago and it's worth a look.
  • Somebody seems unhappy that EL James is Publisher's Weekly's Publishing Person of the Year. Because, apparently, "she did not" write a good book and that she just got lucky after she threw "the virginal girl and powerful man" she'd borrowed from Twilight into bed together and "tied them up".
  • Apparently, 25 million people in China only read cell phone novels. ...That's a lot of cell phones.
  • Wow. Is the world of modern art so ... awful?
  • Publishers may be in for legal tussles over rights for a bunch of books in 2013. A clause in the US Copyright Law introduced in 1978 allows authors - or their next-of-kin, I think - to reclaim rights to their works after 35 years.

Oh, yes. This year's Big Bad Wolf Book Sale is happening from 07 to 23 December at the Mines Convention Centre (MIECC), from 9am to 9pm. This year, they're kicking off the craziness with a 63-hour-long opening (for real?!) from 6.30am on Friday, 07 December to 9.30pm on Sunday, 09 December.

There's more stuff in the insanely graphic-intensive web site (never dealt with slow broadband speeds or shrinking data transfer quotas before?), including a video of how to get to the venue.

Aaaaand, Sandra Loh, author of Pedalling Around the Peninsula, will be at Kinokuniya @ Suria KLCC on 08 December from 3-4pm to talk about her book. Don't think I'll be in the audience this time around.

Saturday 1 December 2012

Editing Manuscripts ... Like Deboning Fish

Sometimes, cookbook editing is the pits, especially for multilingual cookbooks. Grammar can be flexible, the writing can be boring and, if the recipes look good, you're hungry even before you're halfway through.

The instructions, however, have to be concise and clear-cut.

I spent far too much time on Thursday quibbling with a sales exec (and sometimes proofreader) about whether a word should be standardised as "fillet" or "fillets" throughout the whole book. One of them situational things.

When you say "300g of grass carp fillet", do you expect one fillet to weigh exactly 300g, or a bunch of fillets weighing 300g in total?

But if you say "2 Spanish mackerel fillets", then it can't be "fillet" in the ingredients list or instructions, right?

And what happens to the "fillet(s)" when you cut it (or them) into strips or pieces?

In some of the recipes, chunks of Spanish mackerel so do not look like they were filleted. Some recipes even instruct the reader to "debone" actual fillet(s).

To quote the meaning of "fillet" in a culinary context from the Wiktionary (italics mine): "A strip or compact piece of meat or fish from which any bones and skin and feathers have been removed."

Like what you see below.


Mackerel fillets; image from http://miamifishhouse.com


The mackerel "fillets" in the recipes look like:


Mackerel steak; image from http://www.taiwantrade.com.tw


The whitish thingy in the centre is the spine. That's a mackerel steak. Though I'm not sure if it's known as such in Malaysia.

...Talk about bone(s) of contention.

I finally decided that if the number of pieces is stated it's "fillets". If the weight is mentioned, it's "300g of grass carp fillet" - like in this recipe - because when it comes to meat, people usually say "300g of beef/chicken/pork". Though one might be in a quandary when confronted with "brinjal", "pumpkin", "zucchini", "endive" or "tomato(es)".

As for the instructions, I cut out "fillet(s)" altogether, where applicable, and used either "fish" or the type of fish. Except for recipes where the number of pieces are mentioned. I have no clue as yet about what to do with the Spanish mackerel.

...maybe deboning fish would be much hard- sorry, easier.

Monday 26 November 2012

News: Restaurants, Books and Stuff

New York Times restaurant critic Pete Wells's bulldozing of Guy's American Kitchen and Bar rippled for a bit last week, leading to bandwagon-hopping pieces like this one, where a boatload of restaurant critics relate their experiences with negative reviews.

Meanwhile, a Japanese restaurant gets a bad review in the Guardian, and a LA Weekly food critic ran down Gordon Ramsay's Fat Cow.

No, I don't think it's getting trendy to bash restaurants, and I hope that never happens.

Since I'm on a food roll, here's a Ruth Reichl interview where she talks about food books and food culture.

Elsewhere:

  • After books that essentially says "beware of (some) chefs" (Kitchen Confidential/) and "beware of (some) waiters" (Waiterrant), now there's "beware of (some) hotel clerks".
  • Randall Sullivan's book on the "King of Pop" reveals a sad, tragic life.
  • It seems the French publisher of Fifty Shades is cracking down on copycat titles, which it has termed "parasitical" ... isn't it just like the French to ramp up the drama? Nothing, however, has been said about the parodies and 'tributes' to Ms Erika Leonard's blockbuster trilogy that came out before the publication of the French edition, so I'm guessing those are in the clear.
  • Merger II: Is HarperCollins interested in buying Simon & Schuster?
  • JK Rowling and EL James left out of Bad Sex shortlist. Aww, too obvious, perhaps?
  • Good self-published books? Here's how to find them.
  • Woman arrested for "Liking" a Facebook post in "world's biggest democracy".
  • Happy much-belated birthday to Parnassus Books, which some might know as "Ann Patchett's bookstore".

Also: Lydia Teh's Honk! If You're Malaysian is going for another print run, which will feature a redesigned cover. If this batch sells out, that means over 20,000 copies would be sold since it was first published in 2007. Will post a little bit more about this soon.

Thursday 22 November 2012

This Beautiful And Caffeinated World

first published in The Malaysian Insider, 22 November 2012


I bought this book with the hope of learning all that's interesting about coffee.

I wish it had been written in an interesting way.

“Uncommon Grounds” at Artisan Roast, TTDI, KL
Mark Pendergrast's encyclopaedic and scholarly Uncommon Grounds packs a lot of history, geography, a bit of chemistry and assorted trivia in what reads like a memoir of the black brew, complete with illustrations, ad posters, photos and graphical material.

From the fabled tales of its discovery to the rise of the "third wave", coffee has played a bigger part in our modern history than even the most caffeine-literate among us would dare to imagine. Real wars, trade wars, gender wars, civil wars, ad wars, and the colourful characters that pioneered the early coffee trends.

Even sex was part of this rich history. One legend says a Lt. Col. Francisco de Melo Palheta from Brazil charmed a few coffee seedlings from the First Lady of French Guiana in the 18th century. Today, Brazil is considered the world's largest producer of coffee.


Factually voluminous
Points of interest in this book include:

“Uncommon Grounds” at Artisan Roast, TTDI, KL
•  Clash of civilisations. Over 400 years ago, in a bid to ban what was then also known as a "Muslim drink", Pope Clement VIII was given a taste of coffee, and was hooked. He reputedly said he'd baptise the "delicious" drink to make it "a truly Christian beverage." Thank goodness there was no Internet or social media back then, or history might have been different.

•  Kopitiams in England. In the 1700, coffee houses were also called "penny universities". Over a one-penny cup of coffee, one can listen in on discussions that could go on for hours. The topics varied according to the clientèle, and no two coffeehouses served the same group, apparently. Nowadays, coffeehouses can be so noisy, you can barely hear yourself speak. And good luck trying to get a cuppa for a penny.

•  Yankees once knew squat about coffee. For a long time, it seems nobody in the US knew how to properly select, roast and brew the beans. Nor did they know or learn to love the taste of pure coffee. What they added to 'improve' the flavour chills the blood. A partial list (around the 1880s) includes such adulterants as chicory, chrysanthemum seeds, coal ashes, dog biscuits, malt, parsnips, rice, sawdust, wheat and wood chips. One's glad they got much better since then.

•  Coffee substitutes. With all the things used to adulterate coffee around that time, small wonder it made some people sick. In 1895 businessman Charles William Post came up with a 'healthier' substitute. Post was also a savvy marketeer of his roasted cereal coffee substitute, "Postum", using ads that struck a chord with his audience. Ironically, Post also drank coffee, which may or may not have stressed him out or driven him to suicide.

•  Cupping was a guy sport, until... Erna Knutsen was probably the first female ever to enter the male-dominated cupping room, and became a specialist in high-end coffee beans. She also gave the name "specialty coffee" to her niche. The term appeared in the Tea & Coffee Trade Journal in 1974.

“Uncommon Grounds” at RAW Coffee, Jln Ampang, KL
•  Beans in one basket? Bad idea. As a major producer of coffee, the effects of frost on Brazil's coffee crop is carefully watched. Substantial crop damage means higher prices. But as this slack is taken up by countries such as Vietnam, there's the risk of a coffee glut instead.

If Uncommon Grounds were sampled like a coffee, one notices almost immediately a distinct academic dryness that registers heavily on the senses with just the slightest touch of fruitiness. Very little of the blurbed wit is there, except for the footnotes which elicit the briefest of sparkles before dissipating completely. What comes on most strongly are the pungent earthy notes of the deepest sun-deprived alcoves of a library or archival hall.

The author appears not to take sides or present a skewed point of view, hence the neutral, uninteresting tone which makes going from cover to cover almost impossible. Interesting it may be, all that socio-politico-economic stuff just flew over my head, putting me - ironically - to sleep after a couple of chapters' worth. These parts deserve a revisit when the mind is more lucid.

But you'll learn lots of stuff about coffee, like how instant coffee is made. I'm now more determined than ever to avoid it, unless it's the finer brands and only when making milkshakey novelty coffee drinks at home.


A bitter brew for some
“Uncommon Grounds” at RAW Coffee, Jln Ampang, KL
That blood had been spilled over coffee may astonish some. "Blood coffee" has been around for a while; Pendergrast quotes the example of Idi Amin, who financed his reign of terror with profits from Ugandan coffee exports. A news report spotlights criminal raids on Kenyan coffee farms.

But consider this: A news report cites the International Coffee Organisation (ICO) as saying: "The value of total exports in calendar year 2011 is currently forecast at $23.5 billion for a total volume of 102.4 million bags compared to US$16.7 billion for a volume of 96.8 million bags in 2010." Globally, over two billion cups are drunk every day, most of that in developed nations.

In short, coffee is big business. Pendergrast once said that it's the second most valuable legally exported commodity in the world after oil, a statement I first heard in what I think is the 2005 documentary, Black Coffee. Though he seems to have disavowed that assertion in this edition, it's occasionally repeated on the web.

Considering how tightly coffee is woven into the fabric of our lifestyles, I don't think much that can be done at the moment about some of our money trickling down to these unsavoury enterprises. Let someone else take up that Facebook campaign.


Sip, don't gulp
Perhaps it's because my love and experience for coffee has yet to reach the rarefied heights inhabited by the caffeinated cognoscenti that I failed to see the finer points of Pendergrast's Uncommon Grounds.

There's so much in this book, it'll take a while for everything to percolate down to one's subconscious. I just know that I'll be sipping my next good cuppa Java, Brazilian or Colombian with more care.

So maybe I did it wrong. Maybe this book should be sampled in small doses and not gulped down with pinched nose like bitter medicine. It is as complex as the beverage it profiles. The chronological order of the chapters makes that easier but sometimes, one can get carried away and just turn page after page after page after....

...think I'll just stop here and wrap this up.

Even after internalising the whole book, one gets the sense that it's just scratching the surface of the bean. Coffee is still with us, and will continue to evolve along with - and shape - civilisation as we know it. That is, if climate change doesn't wipe out coffee first.


Time markers have been added to the "points of interest" in this version.

Photos taken at Artisan Roast TTDI at 4, Jalan Rahim Kajai 14, Taman Tun Dr Ismail, 60000 Kuala Lumpur and RAW Coffee @ Wisma Equity, 150 Jalan Ampang, 50450 Kuala Lumpur




Uncommon Grounds
The History of Coffee and How It Transformed Our World

Mark Pendergrast
Basic Books (2010), revised edition
424 pages
Non-fiction
ISBN: 978-0-465-01836-9

Monday 19 November 2012

News: Haters, Reviewers, and Publishers

Guy Fieri's American Kitchen & Bar put the New York Times's restaurant critic Pete Wells in an interrogative mood. Though Wells was exceptionally harsh to the restaurant, I have no patience or sympathy to any celeb who behaves and presents himself in ways that make him a target for ridicule.

I won't deny that I found Wells's fiery take on Fieri entertaining. And I do enjoy writing the occasional hate piece - which you may not see here - because there is a kind of pleasure in hating something. But it's got to be a well-written, sufficiently informed piece. Maybe I'll elaborate on this some day.

Back in the book world: Put off by what "professional" reviewers - "corrupt & paid laborers: academics & journalists", like Pete Wells - did to a book, an author subjected (or rather, "crowdsourced" reviews for) his book to "amateur reviewers" and didn't like what he got. So how lah?

Elsewhere:

  • Vietnamese publishers vent against "unauthorised books". "Unauthorised" can mean a lot of things, but I suspect they're talking about pirated books. Elsewhere, an Amazon-published author turns to a former "hotbed of piracy" to distribute his book which, under the Amazon imprint, is not being hosted by retailers such as Barnes & Noble.
  • Days ago, an article by one Michael Levin that suggests "publishers hate authors" appeared on The Huffington Post. Victoria Strauss posted a response. It should be noted that Levin runs a ghostwriting company. Based on the tone in some of the stuff he's written, would it be too subjective to suggest that some of his bile might be targeted at publishers who didn't like what he'd written?
  • Apparently, reading on a Kindle is not like reading a physical book. ...And I thought I was a paper-book romantic.
  • "Missing e-books", and how publishers' control over their digital material is keeping them from libraries. But like paper books and physical bookstores, it's getting harder to argue for the continued existence of brick-and-mortar libraries. The question is: How many of us still want them around?
  • The Nagani Book Club, an iconic Yangon-based publishing house, may re-open after being shut for seven decades. On a related note, here's some background on Burmese literature and its associations with the independence movement.
  • When you need to turn down a publishing contract.
  • Newly retired novelist Phillip Roth tries to discourage a new author and fails. "Don't do this to yourself"? C'mon, let a guy dream.
  • China's great shame, one writer's 'tombstone': the Great Famine.
  • When a son's book is used to defend his father's killer.

Last but not least: The Dulang Washer (MPH Publishing, 2011) has been longlisted for the 2013 IMPAC Dublin Literary Award. Other contenders include The Sense of an Ending by Julian Barnes, The Art of Fielding by Chad Harbach, The Sisters Brothers by Patrick deWitt, The Tiger’s Wife by Téa Obreht and The Cat’s Table by Michael Ondaatje. Which all start with "The".

And the crowdfunding drive for publishing Readings for Readings 2 has collected RM3,000, the "minimum" funding amount. With four days to go before the deadline, this is generally where last-minute contributions should start trickling in.